Wednesday, 01 April 2015 19:02

2005-3. Europe- Venice

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Sylvan and Milton's European Adventure 2005

VENICE

We picked up our suitcases at the hotel and headed for the train station to catch the night train to Venice. Our train was to leave at about 8:30pm and arrive in Venice the next morning.

I was reading "What's the Matter With Kansas" an excellent book by Thomas Frank about the rise of conservatism in Kansas. 

venicesylvantraintovenice

We shared our compartment with an Italian man that had been in Paris for work and an old Arab man that didn't speak any English at all. 

The Italian's wife was also on the train but for some reason having to do with who booked the tickets, she was traveling second class which meant there were 6 people in her compartment rather than four in ours. 

Sylvan enjoyed talking with them and comparing a few things between the lifestyles of Europeans and Americans. The Italians said that American t.v. and movies are definately better. We talked about g

as prices (higher in Europe but goes to taxes to pay for better transportation and health care and not just profit for o

il companies); health care (America spends twice as much and covers only 40% of the population). We talked about how Europeans routinely get eight weeks vacation every year! The Italian man did not feel that this was a good thing though although 8 weeks vacation sounded pretty good to me at the time.

The conductor came around to check our tickets and he asked for our passports. I was a bit nervous giving up our passports but the Italian said that this was standard procedure and it was so that we would not need to be awakened in the middle of the night when we crossed through Switz

venicemiltontraintovenice2

erland. 

After a couple of hours of riding in our seats, we took the sheets and blankets that had been left in the compartment and made our own beds. There was a little ladder to get up to top berths. Milton and I took the top since we thought it would be easier for the old Arab man to sleep on the bottom and the Italian man could sleep on the bottom so he could take care of the old man as he had promised the old man's daughter. Even though we both took a sleeping pill, the old man must have had prostate problems as he was going in and out to the bathroom all night. When he was not opening the door of the compartment, he was rattling through some plastic bags. He was either eating or going to the bathroom all night long. 

It is interesting how many Europeans travel by train and seem perfectly comfortable sleeping in a compartment with five possible strangers or three other possible strangers. I don't thinkn the compartments were even separated by sex (we were all men in our compartment though). I wonder how many Americans would feel comfortable sleeping in a compartment with strangers? Why are we so much more fearful of one another? I am reminded of the book "The Culture of Fear: Why Americans Are Afraid of the Wrong Things" by Barry Glassner.

At one point, the conductor came to our compartment and asked for everyone's passports. As Americans, we are constantly told never to let our passports get away from us and we were a little hesitant to give ours up but this is done as a courtesy to passengers because when the train crosses the border into Switzerland, it will be the middle of the night. By giving the conductor the passports, it is not necessary to wake all the passengers. The passports are returned the next morning. 

9-11-05 Day 6

The next morning we were still traveling along on the train to Venice. The old Arab man was getting off at a stop before Venice and before the Italian couple. He seemed kind of nervous. It seemed kind of scary for this old man to be traveling by himself in a foreign country and speaking a language that probably very few people spoke. He seemed kind of nervous. He seemed to be trying to ask us if the stop where he was getting off was the right place but we certainly had no idea. Shortly after he left, the Italian couple got off at another stop.

Our passports were returned to us before we reached Venice and I was relieved to have them.

venicesylvantraintovenice2

After arriving in Venice, our hotel was not hard to find. Sylvan had looked up directions to everything before leaving home and had put each day's information we would need on 3x5 cards. Each day he would put one or two cards in his shirt pocket and those would have all information we needed regarding directions and what we wanted to see. We followed the directions to the Ponte delle Guglie (a bridge) and then continued up Campo San Leonardo where they have fruit stands on some days...

venicegatetopensione

... and we looked for Calle dell 'Olo which was marked by a black gate...

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...and then you walk down a very narrow little passageway to find the gate for the pensione itself, Foresteria di Palazzo Ducale. We rang the bell and an Italian man that spoke no English responded.

 

((Click here to read our Tripadvisor review of Pensione Foresteria di Palazzo Ducale)

He led us to a very sweet young women who spoke a tiny bit of English. We knew we had arrived much earlier than we had planned and was not sure if we could actually go to our room yet but just wanted to see if we could leave our bags until time that we could check in. In her broken English, she assured us that we could check in right then and she led us to our room on the second floor. This building must have been at the very least a couple of hundred years old. The heavy wooden door to our room opened with a skeleton key. A skeleton key is not very reassuring security but we felt trusting and we always kept our passports, airline tickets, etc. in money belts on our bodies when were out of our rooms anyway.

The room was extremely small. It had the standard two twin beds but even they seemed smaller than usual. We were disappointed to find there was no air conditioning but we were too tired to do anything about it, and would only be in Venice for a couple of nights, and all we could think about was resting. The room was warm but not intolerable.

There was a t.v. in the room but I never could get it to work... but we're in Venice- who has time to watch t.v?

The bathroom was the smallest I had ever seen. You had to really maneuver around the sink to get through the door. You also had to step up about eight inches into the bathroom. The shower was so small it was impossible not to get water all over the bathroom floor when you took a shower.

If you look at the picture on the right, you will see a small square "tank" in the upper left portion of the shower. This was the hot water tank which held about two gallons of hot water. I would get in and use enough water to get wet and then turn it off and soap up and then turn it back on to rinse off.

This was the only unacceptable room on our entire trip. We were paying about $100.00/night which included breakfast. That is not enough for Venice. I would recommend budgeting at least $150.00/ night here at the very least or as much as you can. We did notice that cruise ships dock in Venice. After our experiences here, I think a cruise would be a great way to visit since you would not have to worry about the room or food or packing and unpacking.

But Venice is worth all the inconveniences of the tiny room and the expensive mediocre food. It is worth it because it is absolutely exquisite. It is truly one of the most beautiful places you will ever see. Every turn of your head is rewarded with another incredible site. If you had to sleep on the street and go without food altogether, it would be worth it just to see Venice. Great authors like Shakespeare have written about it but no words can really articulate the beauty here.

We started out walking to Piazza San Marco and we followed the signs that are posted but then we saw a sign that would point to the Rialto Bridge and so we would start going in that direction which was not in the same direction and then we would see a sign that pointed to Piazza San Marco and change direction. This is really not the best way to get to a destination. We kept changing directions and walking along little passages along the canals or between the buildings. I am not sure you could really call them "roads" since they are so narrow. There are no cars in Venice. You get around on boats. The gondoliers were expensive and unnecessary for us. They were quite picturesque to look at though. We either walked where we wanted to go or took the vaperetto which is a water bus.

Mere photographs don't do Venice justice. You have to see the light playing on the water, reflecting off the pastel colored buildings. That just can not be captured in a still photograph... maybe not on film at all.

We finally arrived at Piazza San Marco. There are zillions of pigeons there and there are little stands where you can buy bird seed to feed them. A lot of the tourists seemed to enjoy having the pigeons feeding out of their hands and on their shoulders but we kind of think of pigeons as rodents with wings. You are discouraged from feeding them in San Francisco. I guess it has been drilled into me that these birds are not very clean.

After finding Piazza San Marco, we looked for the vaperetto and took it back to the Ponte Guglie stop in Cannaregio district where we were staying. This used to be the "Jewish ghetto." We had done our research and were looking for a restaurant called "Breck" that was supposed to be affordable. Food was very expensive in Venice. We would pay about $45.00 for our lunch of what appeared to be about two dollars worth of pasta, two small salads, a little bread each, a fruit torte each for dessert and a couple sodas.

Again, if you want good food, come to San Francisco. I can make better spaghetti than any I had in all of Italy. I discussed this with my sister Darlene after getting home and maybe, what we think of as "mediocre" food, is really more healthful? I put a lot of meat and vegetables in my spaghetti and besides being more flavorful, it probably also has more fat and calories and so possibly less healthful? Maybe one of the reasons the Italians looked so much thinner and healthier than Americans is because they DON'T put all the extra stuff in their food or serve the quantities we are used to- besides obviously doing a LOT more walking than we do and spending less time in front of a t.v.?

Rarely did any of the pasta I had have any meat in it. We probably should have looked more for the "tourist" menu's at the restaurants to save money. Those usually would be inclusive of salad, pasta and a meat dish. I can easily say though that I think just about any pizza joint in San Francisco makes better pizza than any you will get in Italy- again just because I am used to more ingredients and bigger quantities of those ingredients than what we had on pizza in Italy.. (when I traveled in Mexico, I often felt that we have better Mexican food in the Bay Area than any "authentic" Mexican food I had in Mexico).

...BeautifulVenice...

I imagine that part of the reason food is so expensive here is that it is labor intensive to make deliveries? You see little barges of goods on the canals and then those goods must be offloaded onto hand trucks and rolled through the little passageways and over lots of bridges.

The Grand Canal...

I kept saying to Milton, "Can you imagine little Milton Thomas from Richmond Texas in Venice Italy?" He would say the same back to me: "Imagine, Sylvan Rogers from Toppenish Washington that used to work in the Brunswick, here in Europe!" We just felt so lucky to be there and constantly reminded ourselves about how "blessed" we were.

After lunch at Breck, we went back to the Pensione.

At one point my sister, Darlene, had considered coming with us and I remembered thinking about that. We had really exhausted ourselves so far on our trip and we could barely keep up with our schedule of packing and unpacking at different hotels and then dashing off to see the sites. We are probably more adventurous than some people and Darlene probably would have been fine but it occurred to me how much easier it would be for most people (including us if we ever returned) to take a cruise ship here. No packing and unpacking or train schedules or dealing with high food prices and tiny rooms. You would probably save money on a cruise since they are all inclusive and you really only need a day or two to see the sights of Venice. It might not be quite as "authentic" or adventurous but we decided that if we were to ever come back to Venice, that a cruise was the way we would want to do it and we would recommend that to others.

Sublime...

After napping in the room for a while, we walked to the Roticceria San Bartolomeo which was a Frommer recommendation I think. It was convenient too since everything was under glass in a counter and you could just point at what looked good and not have to deal with names of things on a menu that you had no idea what it was. Sylvan had beef lasagna and Milton had eggplant lasagna. We both had a little salad and sodas. The bill came to 22 euro which is about $25.00, a real bargain for Venice!

From the restaurant we walked to the Rialto Bridge. This version was built 1588-1591. When did Shakespeare write "The Merchant of Venice?"

Although this picture here was taken the next day in the sunlight, that evening the sun was going down and there was a guy playing a violin. It was so incredibly romantic. Neither Milton or I are usually very romantic but I tell you, a violin at dusk on the Rialto bridge really does something to you... it just stirs the soul and you can't help but feeling romance.

Milton standing on the Rialto bridge that evening. Incredible. If anyone reading this feels their relationship could use a little romance, head to Venice! If you don't feel it there, you are dead.

Sylvan and Milton on the Rialto Bridge.

Looking out from the bridge you see gondoliers carrying couples but when we decided to go to San Marco, we looked for the vaparetto stop.

As I mentioned before, there are no cars in Venice. The vaparetto is a water bus system that will get you just about anywhere you want to go. We found the one that was going to Piazza San Marco but we were looking for the campanile and missed our stop because we didn't realize there are more than one campanile in Venice. We were looking off in a different direction across the water at a different campanile. We tried to get off but they had already untied the boat from the dock and so we had to go to the next stop and walk back.

Here is a pic of Milton on the vaperetto at a different time during the day when there was better light.

"Milton Thomas in Venice Italy!"

When we got back to Piazza San Marco that evening, there were five different bands playing at different outdoor restaurants around the square. You could sit down at one of the restaurants and have drinks and just watch one band through the evening but we did what many of the tourists did, we stood and watched one for a while and then moved to another and watch them. The evening was warm (we were in short sleeves), the music was excellent and we were in Venice! Did I mention romance?

After we left the square, we meandered.. yes, meandered... that is the only way to experience Venice-- meander... slowly stroll in whatever direction, whatever passageway...

along the way we stopped at an internet cafe so Sylvan could check and send emails. We each got a gelato from one of the many gelato stands between San Marco and the pensione.

Often in Venice, I felt like I had to pinch myself..."Is this just a dream?"

9-12-05- Day 7

Sylvan slept great but Milton was tossing and turning all night. We had seen a laundromat the day before near where we were staying so we decided that today was a good opportunity to wash.

Sylvan could not remember if breakfast was included in this hotel but when we went downstairs we were pleased to discover that breakfast was included. We had the usual pastries, cereal, oj and coffee out in the courtyard in front of the pensione. We seemed to be the only people staying there which was fine since it was very quiet. The receptionist and her husband (?) appeared to live downstairs.

After breakfast we took the vaperetto back to Piazza San Marco. We found the post office and got some stamps for postcards.

After returning from Europe, I discovered this site with some great 360 degree pics. You need to have Quicktime installed on your computer to look at them. Click here for the 360 degree pic of San Marco square and St. Marks.

We stood in a pretty fast little line and paid a little fee to take the elevator to the top of the campanile., the tower to the right of the church.

From the top of the campanile., there some incredible views of the piazza below...

... and the bay...

.. Santa Maria della Salute...

San Geiorgio Maggiore and the other campanile. that had confused us the night before.

... and the roof of Saint Mark's Basilica and rooftops of Venice.

When we came back down from the campanile., we decided to get in line to visit St. Mark's Basilica which is over a thousand years old. It is incredible inside but you are not allowed to take pictures. If is free to go into the main floor of the basilica but there is a slight fee to visit the museum on the second floor which we did do.

Although these bronze horses that are now on the balcony at the front of the church are only copies, the originals are inside the church museum. They were found in Constantinople and in 1204 were brought to Venice. In 1797, Napoleon apparently took them to Paris but in 1815 the horses were returned to Venice. This photograph does NOT do them justice. I wish we could have taken some pictures of the originals inside but there was an Italian man that guarded them and would come over to you if you even looked like you were going to take a picture... which of course I didn't but others did...

We asked someone on the balcony to take our pictures. Piazza San Marco is in the background.

This is another picture we took from the balcony at Saint Mark's. That is the Doge Palace on the left.

Here is another angle of the Doge Palace, with facades dating from 1309, was taken at another time.

Click here for another Quicktime 360 degree view.

This lion with wings is the symbol for Venice and you see them everywhere but this is probably the main one that is most famous. This picture was also taken from the balcony at Saint Marks.

Something else you see a lot of in Venice is the masks. They sell them every where. They are usually made of paper mache and are quite beautiful and are used during the annual carnival. That would be a great time to visit Venice.

After our visit to the basilica, we wandered about a little in the piazza. We wandered back to a restaurant we had seen near the Rialto bridge and had lunch. Milton used the bathroom at the restaurant and came out and told Sylvan how weird it was. Bathrooms in Europe can be an experience for Americans. We wandered back to the hotel, stopping at Bella Oggi, a small by American standards supermarket along the way. We got some bread and cheese. That was really not as simple as it sounds though since the cheeses have different names than what we were used to. Apparently they don't usually carry what we call "cheddar" cheese. Everything was white. We could figure out what was Swiss cheese from the holes and what was gouda from the red rind, but everything else was a mystery.

When we got back to our room we took a little nap.

When we awakened from our nap, we decided to go do our laundry at the laundromat we had seen earlier. Even that was an interesting experience for us even though they did have instructions in several languages. First you had to put your clothes in the machine and buy your detergent from a little vending machine. You did not put your money in the washing machine itself. Each machine had a number and you put the money in another place at the back of the building where the dryers were. It all went fine when we figured it out.

There was a weird guy in the laundromat though that was overly friendly with everyone. With Sylvan's experience working with psychiatric patients, Sylvan noticed him right away and notified Milton to avoid him. He put a lot of wet mildewed clothes in a machine but the whole time we were there, he never actually started the machine. He told someone that he was from "Pasadena" but then did not seem to know where Pasadena was. He also had an accent. Later when we were walking by the laundromat, he was still in there. We never did figure out what he was up to but others seemed to avoid him too. After we took the clothes back to our room, we went back to Brek for dinner.

After dinner, we walked back to Piazza San Marco and listened to the bands again. One band was playing classical music and another was playing showtunes.

Along one of the passageways on our way, there was a guy playing guitar and harmonica and was playing "Somewhere Over the Rainbow." We sure felt like we were somewhere over the rainbow. It was poignant in that like Dorothy and Toto, we were definitely not in Kansas.

We looked for the bridge of sighs. The bridge of sighs connects the Palazzo Ducale, where prisoners were tried, to the prison across the canal and the "sighs" are those the prisoners felt when going to prison.

From San Marco square, we took the vaparetto back to the Rialto. Sylvan got another gelato.

9-13-05- Day 7

At 12:25 pm we got on the train to Florence.

The trains in Europe are amazing. They are high speed and very comfortable and go everywhere.

Also in this pic, you can see our luggage. As small as they are, we still found we brought unnecessary stuff! When you are traveling as much as we were, you want to travel as light as possible.

 

Read 6958 times Last modified on Thursday, 26 May 2016 17:43

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Me in my 20's in 1970's- Click for story.
Second Gay Cruise- Click for story.
Me in first grade- Click for story.
1970's Promiscuity- Click for story.
My Mother- Click for more photos.
1967- Summer of Love- Click to read story.
2001 Trip to Cancun- Click to read story.
2015- 2nd Gay Cruise- Click to read story.
Gay Disco 70's- Click for story
My Dad's Family- Click for story.
Palouse- Click for story
2005 Darlene Visit for Gay Pride- Click for story.
1982-1993 Waller Street- Click to read story.
Escondido 1960's- Click for story
Darlene Marries Chuck- Click for story.
2015- 2nd Gay Cruise- Click for story.
1973 "You have to be hurt..." Click to read the story.
Black Men in Oils- Click to read story
1973- Psych Tech Program- Click for story.
2005- Darlene Visits for Gay Pride- Click to read story.
2001 Trip to Cancun- Click to read story.
1974- First Trip to Europe- Click to read story.
Women in Oils- Click for story
Grandview- Click for story
Earthquake! Click to read story.
Click to read "Introduction."
1957-1958 1st Grade- Click to read story.
Photos of Dad & His Family- Click for story.
1964- Luv Please- Click for story.
1974- On Larkin Street- Click for story.
Forbidden Dreams of Love- Click for story.
Cockettes & Angels of Light- Click for story
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Article

01. Introduction

03- Dads Family

03- Photos of my Father and his family

04- My Mother's Family

04- Photos of my Mom

04- Video of my Mom

04- Walling Family Reunions

04-Audio Files of My Mom

04. Billie

04. Ole

04.1. Forbidden Dreams of Love

04.2. Flames of Forbidden Love

04.3 Mom Writing Her Life Story

05- Jim Tarbert

05. Roger

1950's Grandview to Toppenish

1957-1958 1st Grade

1958-1959- Third Grade

1959- Palouse

1961- 4th Grade- Last time I wore a dress

1962- Abilene

1963- Escondido- Early 60's

1964- Darlene Marries Chuck

1964- My Beatle Haircut

1964-The Luv Please

1965 or 1966- Steve Castle

1965- In Foster Care

1966 Living with Darlene & Chuck in Seattle

1967- Juvenile Hall

1976- I Praise Thee (poem to Stanley)

1976- My Second Lover, Stanley Dunne

1976- Paul McCartney and Wings

1976-1330 Bush Street #9J

1977- 1667 Haight Street

1977- Trip to San Diego with Mary Jo

1977-1980- Tumultuous Relationship with John Perry

1978- 525 Haight Street

1979- September- Dad is Murdered

1980's- AIDS- Death and Dying

1980- Winter- First Trip to New York

1980- Word, Sound and Power

1981- Milton- Falling in Love

1982-1993 465 Waller Street

1982-1994 Computers to MacNursing

1984- 33rd Birthday

1985- Graduation from Nursing School

1985- Trip to Hawaii (Oahu)

1988- MIdnight Caller

1989- Earthquake!

1991- Aug 10th- Mom Passes Away

1991- Black Males in Oils

1991- Crack of My Life

1993- Move to Vallejo & Our First Home

1995-1. Road Trip to Washington

1995-2. Surprise Trip to Vegas

1995-3. Grandmother Rogers & Aunts Visit Darlene's

1995-4. Amber

1998- Camping at Russian River

2000 -Thoughts about Progressive Christians

2000- Resignation from John George

2001- April- Trip to Cancun

2001- Peace and Justice

2001- September 11th

2002- April-Puerto Vallarta & Blue Bay Getaway

2002- Nov 12th- My Stepfather, George McHenry Passes Away

2003- Trip to D.C. and N.Y.

2004- Feb- Road Trip to Baha Mexico

2004- Walling Family Reunion in Spokane

2005- Christmas Poem

2005- Darlene Visit for Pride Celebration

2005- Trip to Orlando

2005-1. Europe- London

2005-2. Europe- Paris

2005-3. Europe- Venice

2005-4. Europe- Florence

2005-5. Europe- Rome

2005-6. Europe- Athens

2005-7. Knee Surgery & Tongue Biopsy

2006 Christmas Poem

2006- February 23- Times Herald

2006- Palm Springs White Party

2006- Trip to Seattle

2006-July 8th Solano Peace and Justice Coalition BBQ

2007- Feb- Carnival Destiny- Our First Cruise

2007- Tre and Casey Visit

2008- Aug 15-18 Spokane Visit

2008- Psycho Song

2009- Honored by Vallejo Gay Network

2009- Women in Oils

2010 Christmas Poem

2010- Feb. R.C. Mariner of the Seas Mexican Riviera Cruise

2010- June 24- Badlands

2010- Trip to Seattle

2010-1. Europe- Amsterdam

2010-2. Europe- Paris

2010-3. Europe- Barcelona & Sitges

2010-4. Europe- Madrid

2011-1. Feb. My Fabulous 60th Birthday Weekend

2011-2. April- L.A., Palm Springs & "The White Party"

2011-3. Poem- Girl From Medical Lake

2011-4. Old Man Dancing

2011-5. May- Misty and Alex Visit

2011-6. August- Darlene and Sean's Visit

2011-7. Alex 16-18 & Pics

2012- March- Carnival Splendor Mexican Riviera with Family

2013- Wedding

2014- Christmas Poem

2014- First Gay Cruise

2014- September Road Trip to San Diego

2015- Seasonal Affective Blues

2015- Second Gay Cruise

2015- War on Christmas poem

2015-"Badlands" and Gay Bar Etiquette

2015-September 8. Political History

2016 Do Not Speak for Gay Males

2016- April- Palm Springs RV Adventure

4/4/2016- Not Going Along to Get Along

9/4/15- Liberals vs Conservatives

1970's Promiscuity- Click for story.
2005- Darlene Visits for Gay Pride- Click to read story.
The Psychedelic Experience- Click to read story.
Summer of Love- Click to read story.
Earthquake! Click to read story.
Amber- Click to read story.
Palouse- Click for story
Escondido 1960's- Click for story
2014- Road trip to San Diego- Click for story.
Grandview- Click for story
Second Gay Cruise- Click for story.
2001 Trip to Cancun- Click to read story.
2005 Darlene Visit for Gay Pride- Click for story.
1973 "You have to be hurt..." Click to read the story.
1964- Luv Please- Click for story.
Click to read "Introduction."
1974- On Larkin Street- Click for story.
My Mother- Click for more photos.
Photos of Dad & His Family- Click for story.
1982-1993 Waller Street- Click to read story.
Darlene Marries Chuck- Click for story.
4th Grade- Click for story.
Women in Oils- Click for story
1974- First Trip to Europe- Click to read story.
Cockettes & Angels of Light- Click for story
1967- Summer of Love- Click to read story.
Gay Disco 70's- Click for story
2001 Trip to Cancun- Click to read story.
Me in my 20's in 1970's- Click for story.
Forbidden Dreams of Love- Click for story.
1973- Psych Tech Program- Click for story.
1957-1958 1st Grade- Click to read story.
1958-1959- 3rd Grade- Click to read story.
My Dad's Family- Click for story.
Beatle haircut- Click for story.
Me in 3rd grade- Click for story.
Where I was born- Click for story.
2015- 2nd Gay Cruise- Click for story.
2015- 2nd Gay Cruise- Click to read story.
Black Men in Oils- Click to read story
5th Grade in Abilene Tx- Click for story
Me in first grade- Click for story.